Blog Travel

Backpacking in Baxter State Park (part 2)

Davis Pond, Baxter State Park
Davis Pond, Baxter State Park

From this hour, freedom!
From this hour I ordain myself loos’d of limits and imaginary lines,
Going where I list, my own master, total and absolute,
Listening to others, and considering well what they say,
Pausing, searching, receiving, contemplating,
Gently, but with undeniable will, divesting myself of the holds that would hold me.

I inhale great draughts of space;
The east and the west are mine, and the north and the south are mine.

—Walt Whitman, Leaves of Grass (82. Songs of the Open Road)

Wednesday, Aug. 29, 2012

Typical trail terrain at Baxter State Park.
Typical trail terrain at Baxter State Park.

It’s 7.5 miles from the trailhead to our campsite along the Wassataquoik Stream. A few steps on the trail and we encounter the first and last fellow-hiker of the day. A gaunt, whiskery-bearded fellow, propelled by aluminum hiking poles, he lunges right past us without cracking so much as even a glance.

Fall is catching up on the heels of the region. The air, pure and crisp, teeters on the edge of warmth and coolness. Soon, the colors of the mountains will turn Autumn shades of gold, brown, and red. The trails will become hidden and forgotten beneath the fallen leaf drifts. That familiar childhood smell of crunchy, brown leaves in the frontyard will roam through the hills and valleys, riding the breeze through the naked branches.

Make-shift log bridge over swampy ground
Make-shift log bridge over swampy ground

But, today, the forest is still lush and green. The sun is hidden from our path by a thick canopy of firs, oaks, and other woods. We are enclosed by a wall of foliage that muffles all sound but the occasional dribble drabble creek. The incredible silence of the hills wraps around us—so powerful is complete silence on the human mind that is normally consumed by city noise—saying so much more than we could ever convey to one another in a million years of what it is like to exist right now because sound and thought fade with time but natural silence never ceases nor diminishes nor grows.

Three miles through the trail, we come across an adjacent pond. Across the shore and above the tree line are the towering Chimney and Pamola peaks. In winter, they will surely be snow-capped and the rangers may be forced to close off hiker access. From a distance, the mountains in Baxter do not look overly-intimidating, but they can be quite dangerous as a result of sudden changes in weather. Clouds often sweep up and over at all angles, cutting visibility to a minimum. A group of hikers we encountered later in the trip told us of how the strong winds on Chimney Peak had been strong enough to support their bodies when they laid back into it.

Using the Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter at a stream
Using the Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter at a stream

At the pond, I had my first opportunity to try out the Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter that I had purchased for the trip. The filter is a handy, lightweight, and easy-to-use system. Essentially, you feel up a bag with water from a creek, river, etc., and screw it onto a small tube-shaped filter. Next, you squeeze the bag, pushing the water through the filter and into your container. It’s a very simple and efficient product that is a necessity to any backpacking trip. And, hell, it doesn’t hurt to have a water treatment system when society falls apart and you find yourself traveling through the wilderness to escape the chaos and cannibalism.

We reached our campsite at about 5:30. We had a lean-to, which is typically an elevated, three-walled cabin with a roof. ATers often stay in these on their journey. This was my first time using one, and I couldn’t have been happier with it. Our lean-to was situated on the side of the stream and had a grand view of hills beyond our reach.

A lean-to
A lean-to

One of the best aspects of backpacking and camping is the food. Burning calories all day drains the body. I had purchased an MSR WhisperLite stove for the trip; a piece of equipment I had long desired but could never afford to put money into. It took me a while to figure the instructions out, but when you’re playing with flammable liquids, it’s best to make sure you do things right the very first time. Sure enough, I turned the fuel valve up too high and set the floor of the lean-to on fire. Luckily, my shirt made a good fire extinguisher!… on more than one occasion… Our meals, usually consisted of a pack of flavored rice that we would mix with a package of tuna. Rice & Tuna for dinner. Rice & Tuna for breakfast. Some meals we splurged and made instant mashed potatoes with tuna and even cous cous… with tuna. We could probably have mixed tuna with our coffee, but we aren’t that edgy.

night closes is
night closes in

Twilight in the woods always seems to last forever. Perhaps, the disconnection from technology and electricity has an effect on the perception of time. When you think it must be 10 p.m., it is only 7 p.m. The setting sun falls for a slow eternity behind the hills in the distance. The pink sky brings comfort from the thought that a black bear may drag you off into the woods in the middle of the night. A heavy sleep comes quickly at 8 p.m. followed by numerous awakenings throughout the night. What is that crunching of sticks in the dark? Oh my god, is that a headlamp!?!?! Is someone standing at the front of the lean-to!?!?! Phew, no, it’s only a full moon. Good night.

to be continued…

BBQ-Rice + Chili + Tuna = Awesome.
BBQ-Rice + Chili + Tuna = Awesome.
precious water
precious water
Twilight
Twilight

 

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